Frequently Asked Questions
Ordering
What is the difference between FGDs, DP’s, and GP’s?
- FGD – Field Grown Dormant. A dormant vine that is grown in our field nursery from May to November of the previous year. FGD’s will be delivered with bare roots, and a fully hardened graft union (for grafted vines).
- DP – Dormant Pot. A dormant vine that is grown in our greenhouse the previous year and allowed to go dormant at the end of the season. Dormant Pots will deliver with their roots contained in a potting media or grow sleeve. The grow sleeve will degrade after planting and doesn’t need to be removed before planting, as removal of the sleeve can damage the fibrous roots and can be detrimental to the plant.
- GP – Green Pot. A green potted vine is grown in our greenhouse for 6-8 weeks to deliver in the same season. Green pots deliver with their roots contained in potting media or grow sleeves with actively growing green tissue. Green pots can be trickier to ship as they are more prone to degradation over long or hot transits.
- Green pots are a nice option for a shorter ordering timeline, but have also spent less time actively growing at the nursery so there are pros and cons to green-potted planting.
What is a clone?
A clone is a genetically uniform group of individuals derived originally from a single individual by asexual propagation (cuttings, grafting, etc.). All grape varieties are propagated by asexual means to preserve the unique characteristics of the variety, but slight genetic variations commonly occur among the billions of cells that make up a grapevine. If a new vine is propagated from a cane that grew out of such variant tissue, it may exhibit different characteristics than the original. If the difference is desirable, the vine could be further propagated to perpetuate the new characteristics. Thus, a new clone is born and it is assigned a number or given a name to distinguish it from other clones.
Clones may have differences in time of bud break, time of ripening, cluster architecture (loose versus tight), fruit yield, fruit quality, or other characteristics.
Can I plant non-certified vines?
State laws vary on the travel of non-certified vines. If a commercial industry exists in your state, quarantine is likely in effect to safeguard existing vineyards from devastating diseases spread by dirty plant material. Most experts will advise always sourcing certified vines if available.
How do I place an order?
Email Sales@inlanddesert.com with your preferred variety and qty. (and clone and rootstock if applicable) or submit the order form found here.
What is the minimum order size?
If dormant or green-potted vines are already in our inventory we are happy to accommodate small orders of 100 vines.. FGD’s are sold in pre-bundled units of 25 vines per selection. For custom-grafted orders (rootstock and scion of your choice), we currently have a 500-vine minimum per combination unless we’ve already planned to produce that particular combination for an existing order. Inquire with Sales if a smaller custom order is a possibility.
How many vines do I need to make wine?
On a small scale, you can expect to get 10-11 gallons of must per 100 lbs of grapes. After fermentation and racking off the lees multiple times, you can expect to get about 7 gallons of finished wine. 7 gallons of finished wine will yield around 35 bottles of wine (750 mL bottles). With a typical 5’x8’ spacing (1,089 vines per acre) and a moderate crop yield equivalent to 3 tons/Ac, each vine would yield 5.5 lbs of grapes. 18 vines would be needed to produce 100 lbs of grapes.
One ton of grapes will result in approximately 150 gallons of juice. From a typical three-ton/acre crop, you can expect around 450 gallons of juice/acre. Common vineyard vine spacing is 5’ (between vines) x 8’ (between rows), but many growers prefer higher-density plantings, which decreases the amount of fruit per vine, and some believe it ultimately improves the quality of wine.
How can I pay for my deposit or final invoice?
We happily accept credit card payments up to $5,000.00 US. Call our main office at 509-588-6615 and let us know you would like to pay with a credit card. You can also mail a check to our office at 32508 W Kelly Road, Benton City, WA 99320.
I need to cancel my order, what happens to my deposit?
IDN will retain all deposits paid on order as a restocking fee to all canceled orders.
What are the extra charges on my invoice?
- All invoices will include a
- 5% WSDA Plant Improvement Assessment Fee (Not to Exceed $.10/vine.)
- CPCNW & FPS User fees (BW/Self-Root $.08, Grafts $.096)
- If applicable,
- Shipping and Handling (quotes are available upon request)
- Royalties and Add-ons (ENTAV-INRA, Vineshelters, etc.)
What does the IDN replacement policy cover?
- FGDs and DPs: Our replacement policy covers up to 5% of the total order size for dormant vines. Vines must be planted no later than April 30, and the quantity of failed vines reported in writing by August 1 to qualify for no-charge replacement vines. Let us know how many vines failed to grow and we would be happy to replace them at no charge the following spring.
- GPs: Green-potted vines are sold as-is in good, live condition and are not covered under our replacement policy.
The contract must be paid in full and the account in good standing in order for replacement credit to be applied to the customer’s account.
Shipping
Will you automatically ship my order?
We do not ship orders unless requested by the customer. Orders not scheduled for delivery by June 15th, will be considered canceled and are non-refundable. Before we can deliver the order, we need signed papers (MSA and Contract confirmation) as well as the required deposit payment.
How do I schedule a pickup or shipment of my order?
We request 14-day advance notice for all pickups and deliveries. Please call our main office at 509-588-6615 or email shipping@inlanddesert.com. Reference your contract ID #. We require a signed contract, MSA and 50% deposit (if required on the contract) before pick up or shipment.
What temperature are dormant vines transported at?
Before final packaging for shipment, our dormant vines are stored in humidified cold storage at approx. 35 degrees F. Bare root vines should not be exposed to temperatures below freezing. They are packed in plastic-lined shipping boxes and moist pine shaving which helps but should be kept above 32F and below 50F if possible until planting. At temperatures higher than 50F they will quickly push buds in a box.
Planting
How should I store my vines before planting?
Our coolers are set at approx. 35 degrees F. Bare root vines should not be exposed to temperatures below freezing. They are packed in plastic-lined shipping boxes and moist pine shaving which helps but should be kept above 32F and below 50F if possible until planting. At temperatures higher than 50F they will quickly push buds in a box.
If boxes are stored In a cool, dark environment and are not allowed to dry out, dormant vines can survive a couple weeks before planting. Spray water on the vines as needed to keep the roots from drying out. Green-potted vines should be planted ASAP after receiving the shipment. If planting of GP’s must be delayed, it is recommended to open the top of boxes and store in a cool environment. Moderate amounts of sunlight are beneficial for GP’s. Store boxes in a building that allows some morning sunlight, or near a large tree that allows the vines to receive morning sun but afternoon shade. Full sunlight in the heat of the day should be avoided. Do not let the pots dry out. Water as much as necessary. IDN is not responsible for vines damaged in storage after they’ve left our facility, so we recommend coordinating shipping as close as possible to your desired planting.
When should I plant my vines?
Every area is different in terms of the “ideal” planting timeframe. We recommend waiting until you are well out of frost danger for your area.
How should I plant my vines?
When should I put vine shelters on?
It is critical to install vine shelters as planted vs end of day with green-potted vines. The shelter aids in a smooth transition by blocking wind & creating humidity that mimics greenhouse conditions to keep the shoot tip actively growing vs experiencing transplant shock. Survival rate and growth of green-potted vines will be greatly reduced if vine shelters are not installed immediately after planting. Vine shelters are also very beneficial for dormant vines, although not as critical to install the shelter immediately after planting.
When should I take the vine shelters (“grow tubes”) off?
Removing the vine shelters in the fall and allowing the trunks to be exposed to the elements (cooler temperatures, wind) will help the trunks acclimate by turning them from soft, green tissue to wood (lignify). Mid-September is usually a good time to remove the shelters.
How long does it typically take for grapevines to produce a crop?
The third season is typically when you can expect your first crop. It is possible to get a small crop in the second season if the vines grow vigorously in the first season, are well-lignified prior to the first fall frost, and are not damaged by cold winter temperatures.
What is a grafted vine?
Grafting is the process of joining the tissues of two different plant parts together so they continue to grow as one plant. The scion is the upper portion of the plant and contains the desired varietal characteristics of the fruit. The rootstock is the lower portion of the plant, and has its own characteristics. There are several different grape rootstock options to choose from, and each rootstock species has specific characteristics that may be advantageous to your planting site. Phylloxera and nematode resistance are key characteristics, but the rootstock can also have an influence on the vine’s vigor and fruit ripening.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of grafted vines and self-rooted vines?
Grafted vines can often be grown in areas where self-rooted vines would suffer, or die. Most rootstocks are resistant, or very tolerant, of soilborne pests such as Phylloxera and nematodes which can negatively affect the performance of self-rooted vines. Certain rootstocks can help enhance earlier maturity of the fruit. Some rootstocks are very drought tolerant, and others do well in wetter soils. One major disadvantage of grafted vines is the risk of severe cold injury to the vine. In colder climates, it is possible for temperatures to get cold enough to damage or kill the scion, while the rootstock will likely survive. Replanting or field grafting with scion material would then be necessary for any fruit production.
Self-rooted vinifera vines are very susceptible to Phylloxera and high nematode pressure, but if those pests are not present in the soil at damaging levels, vines can perform very well on their own roots. The most significant advantage of self-rooted vines is the ability to recover from damaging cold temperatures. The vine’s trunk and cordons may be dead, but the roots will usually survive. The vines can be retrained with suckers that push from the root crown, and will be able to produce a crop the following year.